Loire
The Loire Valley is one of France’s great wine regions and is rightly famous for producing top quality white wine and world-class sweet wine. The Loire crosses a very large area and there is great variation in style across the region.
There are many similarities between the Loire and France’s other renowned white wine region, Alsace. But where Alsace defines Riesling, and Burgundy Chardonnay, the Loire is the standard bearer for Chenin and Sauvignon Blanc. The wines reflect the high acid, hard to ripen and very ageworthy grapes produced by the northern climate; the best wines are truly sensational.
The Loire Valley is also home to some unique reds and is one of the few places in the world to produce unblended Cabernet Franc. There is some very good Pinot Noir and Gamay to be found here too.
Key grape varieties:
R Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir
W Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet), Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin
Anjou-Saumur - The Anjou appellation produces light, ripe and juicy reds from Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon along with everyday drinking styles of Rose. Chenin Blanc, meanwhile, is responsible for two great wines: Savennieres and Coteaux de Layon – the first a steely, dry and intensely perfumed white and the second a honey-like, sweet white of great character and depth.
Saumur is well known in France for producing sparkling wine under the Cremant de Loire designation, some of which are very pleasant indeed. Again Chenin Blanc produces fine AC Saumur white wine and the reds are from the two Cabernets.
Vintage recommendations: 1988, 1989, 1990, 1996, 1997, 2003, 2004
Central Vineyards - The Central Vineyards are well known in the UK for two reasons – Sancerre and Pouilly Fume. Both appellations can produce Sauvignon Blanc of outstanding balance, finesse and complexity.
The less well-known areas of Salon-Menetou and Reilly also produce good wine. A small amount of decent Pinot Noir is made and red Sancerre is probably the best example of this.
Vintage recommendations: 1990, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2002, 2004
Pays Nantais - This is Muscadet country, where North West France meets the Atlantic Ocean. The preferred grape is the Melon de Bourgogne, a member of the Muscat Family, making for fresh, crisp and minerally wine. It is also excellently paired with the fantastic seafood of the region.
The wine can appear quite bland and flavourless but is actually characterised by simplicity and ease of drinking. Look for ‘sur lie’ on the bottle for wine that has had longer contact with the lees (so is likely to have more complex and developed flavours).
Touraine - The appellation of Touraine is known for its many fine white wines made mainly from Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. The famous vineyards of Vouvray produce stunning Chenin right through from the bone dry to the viscousy, sweet whites with their honeyed richness; the best examples of both are capable of impressive bottle ageing (15 yrs +).
It is important to note that younger Loire Chenins can be green and lean with a searing level of acidity. Though this is characteristic of this style of wine and grape variety, it may be advisable to seek out a more mature vintage.
The best reds are from Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay.
Vintage recommendations: 1988, 1989, 1990, 1996, 1997, 2003, 2004
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